Tuesday, November 9, 2010 Day 5 in Rome

Buona Sera ~ 
It was another umbrella day - with showers that at least took a break every once in a while.  The wind did kick up and it was quite exciting - but beginning in the morning, we headed to Bessetti Tessuti on Corso Vittorio Emanuele.  I had read an article in the NY Times about this mothership of fabric stores and was pretty excited.  It is reported to be the textile superstore for many of the world's top designers, dressmakers and debonair businessmen alike.

Two brothers opened the store the year I was born (I will let you figure that out) and is now run by their children. In the tight quarters of Rome's historic center, the place is deceptively large — two floors with double-height ceilings, it holds 200,000 fabrics!  We were quickly greeted by a wonderful Italian man that spoke little English, he led us to the "Sale" Italian silks ~ floor to ceiling, you point and he pulled bolts of the most beautiful silk I had ever seen.  EC's use of Spanish/Italian for colors led our clerk to ask EC - "You speak Italian?"; quite a compliment I think!    I merely shook my head, yes/no and pointed as we sifted to bolt after bolt of silk.  We finally landed on three different silk designs, I got 2 meters, EC got 1 meter.  They seemed to have every type of fabric, silks, wools, bedding fabric, plush, designer ball type fabric and even cotton Christmas fabric.  I also found some great cotton fabric that is 3 meters wide (quilt back?) and EC got some Christmas print fabric.

It was a maze of fabric - I wanted to ask for a job there!

Note our Italian male clerk - yes that is EC selecting fabric

I am sure that I enjoyed it more than EC, but she was a trooper - and it was a great experience!

Once we had gone to the "Mothership" of fabric stores we went down a whole street of shops advertising Tussuti, most was wools for suits and more silks, it was wonderful to browse through but we were not moved to make anymore purchases.



Partly because it was raining, and partly because the churches we saw yesterday were so incredible, we began to visit churches again.


We were so surprised when we stepped into the La Chiesa del Gesu!  Again a simple facade located on the Piazza del Gesu.  It was built around 1555 and has 14 chapels.
This history book tells us that this church was the first Jesuit church - and that it became the model that so many Catholic Churches in the Americas were designed after.

The most striking feature of the interior is the ceiling a  grandiose Triumph of the Name of Jesus by Giovanni Battista Gaulli.  Gaulli also frescoed ( a type of relief painting)  the cupola, including lantern and pendentives, central vault, window recesses, and transepts' ceilings.

The Ceiling - Triumph of the Name of Jesus

La Chiesa del Gesu

Main alter

Copula

One of the many chapels

Side chapel

We have lit candles in every church that we have gone in for loved ones - can you all feel the prayers?  La Chiesa del Gesu got our vote for most favorite church - it was really just spell binding!

I love the streets, and alleys and cobblestone streets - it is just so picturesque everywhere you look!

We decided to go to the Vatican tomorrow (Wednesday) and did a little research to avoid the reported long lines and waits.  We found where we could reserve a time to go into the Vatican Museum - so having done that - we had to find an Internet Point (that is what they are called) that could print out our reservation.
EC sent me on my way - while she returned to the flat.  But when I found where she had sent me - the Internet Point was not open and they were laying the laminate floor.    And I am the one that has not looked at a map since we got here.

With quiet determination - I found an Internet Point that was open - and remembered to walk back as far as the Thai Massage place, turn left at the pen shop, walk past the roasting chestnuts, walk past the Piazza Navona, and turn right at the Pizza place, and then just past the Gelato shop are our green doors.  Maybe she was hoping it would take me the rest of the day to find my way back - hmmmm - maybe I should put a map in my pocket :-)

Lunch was at a cafe on the Piazza Navona - EC had a chicken cutlet (we have now sworn off any kind of cutlet - it is not the Italians' strength!)  I have ravioli - great great great!  

Knowing that we were going to the Vatican tomorrow, we decided to walk to Vatican City to see how far it was and make sure that we knew our way -  and lark - we came upon the Chiesa SS Celso E Giuliano church.  A very small church.

Note:  If there are 3 million people in Rome, and 95% of them are Catholic - that equates to 2.85 million Catholics in Rome, 23% attend mass in 280 churches - that equates to 2,341 Roman Catholics /  Church in Rome.   I still think that equates to alot of empty pews!  Why did they build so many churches in the first place?  EC did notice that there are alot of priests here - like ya think?  :-)

Interior of Giuliano

Side chapel

We crossed the Tiber River from the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele Bridge - which allowed us to see the Bridge of Angels from a distance.  This bridge has three arches spanning 350 feet. It is decorated at the ends with bronze winged angels, and over each pier there is a massive travertine sculpture.  The views of the city and the river and St. Peters are just amazing.

Castel Sant'Angelo

 The official age of Rome is 2,764 years and there have been 170 popes and 73 emperors - there will be a test one week after we return :-)  Are we having too much fun?

One of the massive sculptures

St Peters Basilica at the end of the street

It looked like a Hollywood backdrop!

She looked like she would fly away!

So tomorrow we are off to see Vatican City - the smallest state in the world!  We will be in St. Peter's Square at the same time the Pope is, we will go through the Vatican Museum and walk through the Sistine Chapel and go into St. Peter's Basilica.    Be wary of lightening striking!  

Buona notte alla nostra famiglia e gli amici